COLUMN REMOVAL
The first process in the removal of the steering
column is to remove the steering wheel and horn assembly.
1.) Remove the horn ring cap and horn ring by
removing the three Phillips head screws that secure it. Now you want to
note the position of the pieces for re-assembly later. Note: On Be/air
models the horn ring cap
 is
retained either by a clutch head style screw which is removed from the
under side of the steering wheel or clips. 2.) Now using the
ratchet, extension and 3/4" socket, remove the retaining nut that
secures the steering wheel. 3.) With the help of a steering wheel
puller you can now remove the steering wheel.
4.) With the wheel off you should now remove the spring and spring
seat from the end of the shaft. 5.) Remove
the shifter arm by driving the pin out using the ball peen hammer and
3/16" punch. The spring on the ball end of the lever needs to be removed
and retained. 6.) Remove the neutral
safety switch by first pulling the wires, noting the connector positions
for re-assembly, then using the Phillips head screwdriver remove both
retaining screws. The switch fastener ears are slotted to allow for
adjustment during re-assembly. 7.)
Disconnect the turn signal/horn
 wiring
harness located on the left side of the column under the dash.
8.) On 55-56 vehicles, slide the rubber seal up
far
enough to allow you to get at the clutch head screw retaining the lower
cover. 9.) Remove clutch head screw and
lower cover. 10.) Remove upper cover using
a medium sized flat head screwdriver to carefully pry off (it's retained
with spring clips). 11.) Remove the shift
indicator wire by unhooking the wire from the indicator needle assembly
and the steering column wire loop. 12.)
Remove the inside steering column clamp by removing the two bolts using
your 1/2" socket with a small extension. Be sure to inspect the rubber
shim/ insulator for damage or wear prior to re-assembly.
13.) From under the hood, disconnect the
transmission shift linkage rod at the steering column shift arm using a
1/2" wrench. Also remove the shifter arm detent from the bottom of the
column using a 3/8" deep socket. 14.)
Disconnect and remove the lower clamp by removing the two bolts securing
it with your 1/2" wrench and socket. The upper bolt must come out
entirely. Slide the clamp down the housing and rest it on the steering
box. 15.) Using your dikes, clip off the protruding portion of
the clips securing the steering column floor seal and push them through
the firewall using the 3/16" punch and hammer if needed. The column
assembly should be ready to come out.
STEERING BOX REMOVAL
Now we move on to the removal of the stock box.
 1.)
Remove the 1-1/4" nut and washer that secure the pitman arm to the
sector shaft. 2.) Using the pitman arm
puller, remove the pitman arm from the sector shaft.
3.) Remove the three nuts securing the steering
box to the frame (9/16"). 4.) Remove the
box by wiggling it off the frame then carefully moving it up and out. If
the generator is in the way you may need to either loosen it and move it
in or take it out completely.
605 STEERING BOX INSTALLATION
Our modified box makes this extremely easy.
1.) Bolt on box in the stock position.
2.) Re-install the pitman arm on the sector shaft.
3.) Install the new rag joint on the steering box.
If all has been successful you should now be ready for the bench work.
BENCH WORK
The first step is to separate the column mast
jacket from the shifter tube.
 1.)
Using your Phillips head screwdriver, disassemble the upper end of the
column by removing the three retaining ring screws from the lock plate.
One of the screws has no obstructions but you will have to
move the turn signal in one direction or the other to remove the other
two. 2.) Remove the wire retainer clamp by
unscrewing the retaining screw on the left side of the column at the
entry slot. 3.) Remove the wires from the
retainer with a small flat head screwdriver. Note: Be sure to mark exact
location of each wire. 4.) Remove the turn
signal housing by pulling the entire assembly out through the top taking
care not to damage any wiring or connectors.
5.) Remove the lock plate, spacer and shift lever housing.
6.) Disassemble the
lower portion of the column by removing the three bolts and washers,
using a 1/2" socket or wrench, then carefully removing the lower
bearing. 7.) You should now be ready to separate the shifter tube
from the steering column and clean both parts. We are now ready for the
tube and steering column modification.
MODIFICATION
 1.)
First and quite possibly the most crucial part of this job, using the
scribe or sharp marker make a line about eight inches long from the
bottom of the mast jacket/steering column tube up. This important
marking is going to enable you to properly align your column when its
welded back together. 2.) You need to mark
the tube and mast jacket for cutting. Our car required that we cut a
four-inch section out starting three inches up from the bottom. So we
measured up 3" and made a scribe then we measured up an additional
3.25"
and made another mark with the scribe ending 6.25" up the mast.
3.) This next step is very
important and this is where we recommend the assistance of a qualified
machine shop. The three and a
quarter inch section
needs to be cut out and the two pieces need to be welded back together.
4.) Repeat the same procedure on the shaft tube
using the weld seam as your line. Note: If you were planning on
installing a TH350 or TH400 transmission in your '55 or '56 this would
be a great time to modify the neutral safety switch slot so that you can
use our #035 switch. You do this by elongating it an additional 1/2"
towards the driver side. 5.) Modify the
steering shaft to attach the rag joint by cutting it down to 31.25" to
the top of the steering spline as shown above. Measure up 3/4" from the
bottom of the shaft and grind flat spots on each side. Only grind off
enough to allow for a good tight fit in the rag joint. After installing
steering shaft in the rag
 joint
and on the steering box, drill a 3/16" hole through the rag joint and
shaft. Install a roll pin for security. 6.)
Re-assemble the steering column and
 install
in the car will need to be slightly modified to allow for clearance of
the shifter arm. If you are or have a good machine shop you can cut off
the old shifter arm and fabricate a new one with an "L/'shaped angle to
clear the firewall. Either way will work just fine.
We have limited this article to the modification of your stock
column and the installation of the new steering box. However, a power
steering pump with the necessary hoses, brackets, pulleys and belts will
be necessary to complete the job. Any Saginaw power steering pump will
work with the 605 box. We carry a Saginaw pump (part #10148), bracket
(part #2684) and hoses (part #2699) that will work for most applications.
We truly hope that this article will aid you in the restoration of
your classic. We look forward to our next project and would love to hear
from you. Please send any installation article suggestions to: Danchuk
Manufacturing, Inc. c/o Installation Articles 3201 S. Standard Avenue
Santa Ana, CA 92705 |
